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Regional Designers in the Spotlight on Day One of BCEFW

2026/02/14


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Traditionally, on Friday, Budapest Central European Fashion Week (BCEFW) showcases the latest creations by young regional designers and emerging Hungarian talents. This time, Czech, Slovenian, Slovakian, and Ukrainian brands unveiled their autumn-winter collections, rich in extravagant material pairings, abstract silhouettes, and exciting narrative elements. Three participants of the Ljubljana Fashion Week Collective Show, Pia Šilec, Martin Kaluža, and Anja Medle, summarised the essence of their collections in short interviews.

In winter, designers usually lean towards dark, neutral tones — yet you created a collection vibrant with stripes and pastel colours. What inspired the choice of the almost spring-like, soft colour palette?

 

Pia Šilec (PIAs Label): In the world of fast fashion, mainly shades of black and brown dominate, but I deliberately wanted to move in a brighter direction. Walking the streets of Budapest, I noticed that people often wear these colours, looking tired and sad; however, I want someone wearing my creations to feel more energetic and lighter. Everyone needs a little joy. As for the shapes, I pay particular attention to designing garments that can accompany women over many years, even as their bodies change. It is important that a piece remains functional across different stages of life. I always start from the proportions of the female body — although I love strong, structured cuts, emphasising the waistline gives even the strictest contour a feminine effect. The prints are my own designs — working with these colourful, vibrant stripes was especially enjoyable because they are freely combinable and fit perfectly with the playful, mix-and-match concept.

 

The silhouettes in your new collection combine the lightness of drapery in ancient cultures with bold, futuristic features. How did this contrast-driven, distinctive sci-fi universe come together? 

 

Martin Kaluža: The collection began with the concept of a dystopian, post-apocalyptic world — a desert landscape where everything slowly transforms and decays. This mood influenced both the material choices and the silhouettes: some textiles were treated with a special rust-dyeing technique, creating a natural, time-worn, corroded surface. I was also inspired by different exoskeleton structures, which represent a harder, structured layer, balanced throughout the collection by softer drapery. For the design of the ergonomic body jewellery, I collaborated with a Slovenian 3D designer whose portfolio focuses on striking parametric pieces. Smaller jewellery items were made from 3D-printed metal, while larger accessories were crafted from 3D filament and airbrushed to create a more intense surface texture. All these elements — contrasting materials, jewellery, and forms — ultimately converged into a visual world inspired by techno subculture.

 

You combine translucent, vibrant, wildflower-inspired textiles with fur and natural tones — these contrasts suggest a bold, experimental attitude. How does your design process unfold, and how do you harmonise such opposing material qualities? 

 

Anja Medle (MEDLE): I really like the slightly over-the-top, glam aesthetics of the eighties. In that decade, every detail, whether in clothing or interiors, was exciting, colourful, and bold, and it is precisely this daring style and approach that inspires me when designing my own pieces. The mood of the 1980s can also be seen in the tights and bodysuits, while the silhouettes emphasise distinctly feminine shapes. I never pair colours and materials according to conscious rules; I work with them instinctively, like a puzzle: I place them side by side and observe how they interact. The patterns in this collection — such as the floral motifs or the green elements — are always my own designs. I usually start with sketches, but when finalising them, I rely entirely on my emotions. 

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